My Spring/Summer 2015 Curly Hair Care

After recently cutting my hair it’s taken me some time to get into a new routine.  I started incorporating water only hair washes in January 2014 and my hair has never been softer.  I'll start by saying that I don't only wash my hair with water.  When I first started I thought that I would be product-free for life, and use the natural oils that my scalp produces to do it all.  In the end I've found a pretty good balance with it all.

Prior to water only hair washing I didn't know my scalp produced any natural oils at all.  This alone killed the myth that curly/coily hair is naturally dry. These natural oils (aka sebum) that your scalp produce moisturize the hair like nothing else.  I utilize the natural oils from my scalp along with simple DIY hair care products for easy, extremely inexpensive, and truly effective curly hair care.

Pre-Sectioning & Finger Detangling

Every 3-4 days I reset my hair style.  I spritz my hair with water and divide my hair into 8-12 sections to get a thorough scritch, massage, and preen going.  Scritching is a light scratching of the scalp, a scalp massage helps the scalp produce sebum and increases circulation, and preening is distributing theses oils down from the roots to the ends of the hair strands.  I put each section into a two strand twist.

Monthly Clay Clarifying Treatment

Once a month I clarify my hair with a bentonite or rhassoul clay wash.  I sometimes mix in other herbs such as a conditioning and mucilage herb with the clay as I describe in great detail here along with an acidic liquid like aloe vera juice.  I don't worry about removing too much of my natural oils because my scalp is always producing more, and a good preening moves these new oils down the length of my hair.  Applying wheat germ oil to dry/damp hair prior to clarifying is a great way to add an extra conditioning step that also helps remove excess oils if needed.

Water Rinses & Herbal Apple Cider Vinegar Rinses

Most of the month I only rinse my hair with water, although I will use a diluted herbal apple cider vinegar as needed.  The vinegar rinse maintains a healthy pH balanced scalp.  Once or twice a month I use a detangling brush similar to the Tangle Teezer to further detangle my hair under running water during my hair rinse.  In general I only detangle my curls with my fingers.

Moisturizing & Sealing

I have a love/hate relationship with flaxseed gel just because it defines my hair too well.  For awhile I had completely forgotten about the easy way to make flaxseed gel which is actually more like creating a curl refresher spray.  This DIY Flaxseed Jelly Spritz has the best consistency to create definition, yet still give my hair the volume that I want.  I use the Flaxseed Jelly Spritz to moisturize and style my hair.I've also started using shea butter again which I whip with wheat germ oil, castor oil, and rosehip seed oil.  I eyeball the amounts of each ingredient to create the consistency I desire.  No batch is exactly the same, but they all do the same thing, further protect my hair.  I always get smooth results with my styles using small amounts of shea butter.

Styling The Curls

My braid outs have been my go-to style when not doing a wash and go.  I use 3/16" perm rods on the ends of my 12 braids for extra volume.  No matter how I set my curls, I use a hair pick to fluff my hair as much as possible.  Between frizz and a hair pick I couldn't be happier.

Currently No Deep Conditioning

Currently I have been skipping the deep conditioning step in my regimen simply because there is no better conditioner for your hair like the natural oils that your scalp produces.  I feel like I was adamant about this step before because you're supposed to deep condition right?  The longer that I have worked with my own natural oils the more I realized it wasn't exactly necessary.  If things change, I'll change with it.I haven't been using henna as often right now either.  Not because I don't absolutley love it, but because I haven't had the time.  I've only hennaed my hair once this year so far.  If I can get one or two more in this year I'll be thrilled.

DIY Hair Products + A Quick Review

Filtered Shower Water--I rinse my hair every 3-4 days to finger detangle & restyleHerbal Apple Cider Vinegar Rinse--as needed for a healthy scalpWheat Germ Oil--optional pre-wash treatment before clarifyingClarifying Herbal Clay Wash--my monthly clarifying treatmentFlaxseed Jelly Spritz--moisturizer/stylerShea Butter Mix--sealer/styler

So there you have it, my simple curly hair regimen!

See the beginning of my water only hair washing journey here!

Images by Dawn Michelle